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Comment lire une bougie d'allumage.

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Comment lire une bougie d'allumage. Empty Comment lire une bougie d'allumage.

Message par sphynx Mar 25 Mar 2014 - 15:53

Suite a la lecture d'un autre forum j'ai eu envie de récrire se que j'ai envoyer dans celui-ci pour p-e renseigner plus de gens. Par contre tout se que je vais laisser ici reste a être utiliser avec modération et non comme sa pour le fun car il faut en avoir vu pour être capable de dire si oui ou non c'est correct.
sphynx
sphynx
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Nombre de messages : 239
Age : 37
Ville : estrie
Véhicule : evo ix
Date d'inscription : 05/03/2013

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Message par sphynx Mar 25 Mar 2014 - 15:57

Voici ce que j'ai dans mais aide mémoire que j'ai ramasser sur internet pour apprendre avec les année.

exemple 1

Comment lire une bougie d'allumage. Bougie12

Lets analyze this plug, sorry the numbered points aren't clear but it's 1-4 you can figure it out.

#1 Is a timing indicator, you'll see a definite color change on the ground strap, it doesn't show well here but you can still see it right about at the arrow.  Too much timing and the color change will be very close to the threaded body of the plug, too little and it'll be closer to the tip.  Ideally we want it right in the apex or center of the 90 bend on the ground strap.  This plug shows too much timing for the combustion chamber efficiency or octane level.

#4 Arrow shows another indicator of timing, you'll usually see a brown ring right at the tip of the porcelain area it should be a sharp and defined ring about .020 wide.  Wider indicates not enough timing and any smaller , or only 1/2 way around or nonexistent as in this image is the second indication of too much timing in the motor.

#2 The tip of the ground strap is loaded with OIL deposits, fuel deposits are usually flat black in color and almost like a fine powdery deposit, this motor is leaking oil into the combustion chamber, bad valve guides, leaking valve covers allowing oil to seep through the plug threads, whatever it needs to be fixed.

#3 The threaded portion of the plug gives you the heat range, look at the threads you'll see that a few toward the tip are a dull burnt looking color the rest are black and shiny.  You want about 2 threads showing the heat on the end of the plug and the rest of the threads to be shiny, this plug is impossible to read because of the oil mess.  If you using a longer reach plug than this one 2.5 to 3 threads is optimum.
To increase the number of burnt threads increase the heat range of the plug, if you have 4-5-6 threads burnt you need to get a colder plug.

Looking at the color of the porcelain I'd give this carb a passing grade at the mid range and not to bad on the idle circuits although that dam oil leak makes it tough to really get a good read.  I'll get some better shots for lesson 2.

I'm going to keep working on this page and try and get some real good shots of various plugs, we'll study each one and find the good and bad tell tales of each.

I'll also start pulling some plugs out of my race car at various settings and get pictures so we can see how jetting, timing and heat range affect the plugs in the same engine under the same conditions.

exemple 2
https://i.servimg.com/u/f57/18/48/59/46/bougie13.jpg

The plug is showing me by the deposits on the tip of the electrode and also the deposits right on the edge of the threaded body.
that it's slightly fat at idle.
 
The white porcelain is showing a lean condition at WOT, it's not too far advanced as the total timing mark or color change is right in the apex of the ground strap curve.  The Idle timing is shown by the triangular hazing up on the flat of the ground strap and without even looking at the distributor specs I can tell you that  the timing on this SB Mopar is about 18-20 initial and 34 total.

I would need a better picture of the threads to determine the heat range.

Changes:
I would try and lean it out just a touch at idle and up the jets by 2 points to fatten up the WOT circuit.

That slightly lighter color at the tip of the ground strap indicates too much gap, nothing serious but next time you change plugs I'd go to about a .036 gap from the current .040.  Too much resistance caused by too wide of a plug gap can cause excessive heat on the tip which will shorten the life of the plug and really give you no benefits.  I believe excessive plug gaps are not required on most Muscle and bracket cars, once you get into real big compression and major power you would open up the gap and replace plugs 2-3-4 times a year.







sphynx
sphynx
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Nombre de messages : 239
Age : 37
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Date d'inscription : 05/03/2013

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Message par sphynx Mar 25 Mar 2014 - 16:00

Comment lire une bougie d'allumage. Bougie17
Comment lire une bougie d'allumage. Bougie18
Comment lire une bougie d'allumage. Bougie16

Let's look at Image 1.......
Note the change of color on the ground strap and it's position, this shows a timing issue.  Unfortunately the reader who sent this image in didn't say what engine he was working on but by the condition of the plug I would guess a Small Block Chevy, 3 years old with 38* total timing and an Edelbrock Carb......I'm sure he will respond  Bad)

In the second image I used a green arrow to show the area where we want the timing mark to be on this engine and of course you can see that the motor has too much timing.

Image 3 shows only one thread heated on the plug and rest are oil soaked and wet this normally indicates that the plug is too cold, the oil indicates a valve cover leak and a New set  of Cometic Aramid fiber gaskets would cure it.
sphynx
sphynx
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Nombre de messages : 239
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Message par sphynx Mar 25 Mar 2014 - 16:05

Comment lire une bougie d'allumage. Bougie19

The color on the plug indicates a decent idle A/F ratio and a good ignition system probably an MSD or some other type of aftermarket ignition. The hot spark is keeping the porcelain clean on the top area anyhow.  Now if we look down into the bottom of the plug as seen in the above image where the porcelain reaches below the steel body  we see black deposits  indicating a rich condition at mid range to WOT.  I would guess this engine is a little lazy in mid range and could get better mileage.

Changes:
Back off the total timing but keep whatever the initial is as it appears pretty good, I would shorten the total by 4* and do another check.
Fix the oil leak
Go up one heat range and after about 50 miles check to see if you have 2-3 threads heated up and discolored for correct heat range. Heating up the plug will help reduce the carbon build up and further tuning with the A/F ratios can be done

Before you can really tell what to do with the carb the ignition must be right as well as the correct heat range on the plug to get true readings.

...and check your Idler arm it appears to have some slack in it and your left rear tire needs 3# of air.
sphynx
sphynx
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Message par sphynx Mar 25 Mar 2014 - 16:06

j'espère que sa peu vous aider a comprendre plus.
sphynx
sphynx
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Nombre de messages : 239
Age : 37
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